Siargao on the crest of a tourism wave
TESS MAURICIO MANILA
When one thinks of surfing, the wild and exciting
breakwater scenes of Hawaii, Australia and
California immediately come to mind, not the pearly
shores of the Philippines.
With over 7,000 islands and bordered by the Pacific
Ocean and the South China Sea on its east and
west coasts, complemented by the monsoon and
typhoon seasons, the archipelago is surely bound
to have surfing spots.
It is not known exactly how this intense sport
started in the Philippines, but many claim it was
during the filming of Francis Ford Coppola’s
Apocalypse Now.
During a break from the production, some actors,
production crew and extras were rumored to have
reached Baler, Aurora (then Quezon province), and
enjoyed the activity.
The Americans befriended and taught some of the
locals, left some of the surfboards, and the rest as
they say, is history.
Another account dates back to the early 1980s,
when a mysterious traveler by the name of “Max
Walker” settled in a small hut along the coconut-
lined shores of Tuason Point, Catangnan, a quick
hop from the perfect break, the famous Cloud
Nine.
The former town mayor still remembers the strange
tourist whom he gave the moniker “Mad Max”.
In the course of time, it was found out that he was
the legendary Hawaiian surf traveler Mike Boyum.
While on the lam, he discovered Grajagan or G-
land, a popular surfing spot off Java, Indonesia.
Fans and friends followed his footsteps later on to
recount his adventures and their stories and
pictures of the isolated and unspoiled wonders of
Siargao found their way in international magazines,
providing an unprecedented exposure for the
island.
Nowadays, Siargao Island is known as the
country’s surfing capital. The unspoiled teardrop-
shaped island in the province of Surigao del Norte,
is a Shangri-La for adventurers and nature lovers.
The excellent waves draw its size and strength from
the Philippine deep to the island’s east enhanced
by the strong typhoon winds that hit the country
annually between July and November.
The Philippine deep, a continental trench, is the
second deepest in the world at about 34,000 feet.
Mt Everest can be submerged there with a few
thousand feet more to spare.
The most popular among the Siargao breaks is
Cloud Nine, a powerful first-class right-hander that
has brought an annual international surfing
competition to our shores every September or
October.
The quality wave is hollow and extremely strong
that international surfing magazine, Surf Magazine,
hailed it as one of the world’s five toughest breaks
and has been frequently compared to the famous
surf of Hawaii and Australia. It is for the
experienced surfers.
Beginners and intermediate surfers need not
despair, however, as there are numerous breaks
within the immediate vicinity with both foreign and
local sounding names such as the Jacking Horse,
a wave that jacks up out of the blue and hits the reef
with a fair bit of vengeance.
Quicksilver is good for beginners to intermediate
as it can deliver a good long ride. Pacifico, a
beautiful barrel – a quality left hander that rides
long and Rock Island, a right-hander breaks on a
rocky reef wrapping around a small rock island. It is
a fast, hollow and extremely long ride.
Moreover, there are so many others yet unnamed or
undiscovered. With some patience, one is bound to
find the perfect surf for the individual’s taste.
It also does not have to be limited to Siargao either
as there are numerous breaks throughout the
Pacific coast, from the town of General Luna,
Siargao, going north to Samar in the Visayas, and
Catanduanes and Baler in Luzon.
Southward, Lanuza in Surigao del Sur has also
been making waves as a surfers’ paradise and
lately, as the birthplace of the export-quality
bamboo surfboard.
At the recently concluded Lanuza Surfing Festival
organized by the Philippine Surfing Federation, the
Australian and Japanese participants were
impressed with its ride, construction and
inexpensive cost.
According to the district’s congressman,
Representative Butch Pichay, the product will be
mass-produced by the Lanuza natives to generate
income for the townsfolk and bolster tourism.
On the Philippines’ west coast, Zambales and La
Union are the known wave-dancing spots. While
the former is an up and coming destination for the
sport, La Union has steadily drawn locals and
tourists due to its range of waves and
accommodation facilities, plus its proximity to Metro
Manila.
The waves here are reputed to be “glassy,”
(smooth) probably a surfer’s term, coined by a
Japanese resident named Kazuo Akinaga.
“Aki,” his fond nickname among the locals, said he
came to La Union 25 years ago as an amateur and
frequented the same coast for its natural beauty,
the glassy waves between October and March,
friendly locals and its exclusivity.
“I liked the place. The breaks were mainly
untouched and there were hardly any surfers.” He
eventually settled there, married a Filipina, taught
the locals and visitors, and started the now defunct
La Union Surfing Association.
While fanatics see the sport as a thrill, the
government recognizes it as an engine to boost the
local economy with an influx of tourists while local
aficionados earn extra income from teaching
visitors.
Surfing lessons are said to start at a mere P350
and that includes the surfboard already.
For adrenaline junkies and those with a knack for
adventure, surfing pros and beginners alike, the
Philippines is truly a gem for excitement hunters,
particularly those interested in the physically and
mentally demanding activity.
Ready to get wet?

It is not known
exactly how this
intense sport
started in the
Philippines, but
many claim it was
during the filming of
Francis Ford
Coppola’s
Apocalypse Now.
All rights reserved. Filipino Globe
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Practitioners of the water sport find an endless challenge in the giant waves of Siargao and La Union. A Japanese die-hard has even settled in La Union for the great surfing it offers.
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