How native son rebuilt a lost childhood

MIKE  MINA MANILA

Ilocos Norte is known for its magnificent and
charming architectural landmarks such as the
world famous Burgos Lighthouse and Paoay
Church, both Unesco World Heritage Sites.

These treasures from the past have also become
symbols and icons of their respective towns.

Tucked in a small corner along the coastline of
Currimao in Ilocos Norte is Sitio Remedios, an
18,000-square metre sprawl of a gem in a turn-of-
the-century Ilocos setting.

Sitio Remedios is a beachfront “heritage village”
resort owned and developed by Dr Joven Cuanang,
medical director of St Luke’s Medical Center.

Opened in May last year, this sitio has a chapel, a
plaza, and seven old houses – all dedicated to Our
Lady of Peace and Good Voyage and Nuestra
Señora de los Remedios, patron saint and
namesake of the resort owner’s mother.

While sipping tsokolate and munching on
scrumptious biscochos (another Ilocos Norte
delicacy) on a moonlit night under the shade of a
centuries-old tamarind tree, we asked why he did it.

He replied: “Because they’ve taken away my
childhood memories. After graduating in the States,
I came home to find that my ancestral home had
been torn down and replaced with a modern
structure. Since then, I vowed to rebuild, and here
it is.”

Born in nearby Batac, in the neighborhood of the
late strongman Ferdinand Marcos, Dr Cuanang
graduated from the University of the East-Ramon
Magsaysay Memorial School and Harvard Medical
School. Orphaned at age 15, he has since nurtured
a passion for the art.

To date, he owns leading art galleries, including
Pinto Gallery in Antipolo. By developing and
opening Sitio Remedios, Dr Cuanang has once
again re-established connections with the past.

The experience begins at the heavy wooden gates
of Sitio, which opens to Avenida de Azucao, a grand
walkway with a replica of an antique brick-clad
bridge paved with old stones from the town of
Pasuquin and flanked by reflecting pools with
azucao lotus plants, once in great abundance in the
mythical Paoay Lake. Large cacti, frangipani
(kalachuchi), maguey, and other local flora line the
sides of the avenida.

The 14 Stations of the Cross are carved on cement
plinths shaped like the buttresses of the famed
Paoay Church.

Ascending the steps at the end of the walkway, one
is greeted with a sweeping and picturesque view of
the entire sitio against the azure waters of South
China Sea: the stone-paved Plaza de Manzanilla
flanked by rows of old Iloco houses; the rough
hewn Capillla de San Miguel that is reminiscent of
the Paoay Church, all surrounded by centuries-old
trees.

Dramatically lit at night, the plaza and chapel
grounds transform into a venue that sets you back
to the days of old Ilocos where, then, with the
absence of modern trappings like television and
computers, friends would gather around for tête-à-
têtes or rounds of the lively game of patintero.

The seven houses, a labor of love by Dr Cuanang
and Ilonggo architect Rex Hofilena, each reflect the
traditional Ilocano look of the ’50s and were built
from old wood, bricks and other architectural
details like old carved doors, capiz shell-inlaid
windows, balusters and railings all retrieved and
painstakingly preserved from torn-down old houses
around Ilocos.

Their namesakes come from their places of origin
like Bacarra, Batac, Dingras, Piddig, and San
Nicolas.

Apart from air-conditioning and shower-fitted
ensuites, the only modern conveniences you will
find in the houses are water dispensers.

True to their original form, the houses also come
with authentic ’50s furnishings: vintage lighting
fixtures; crocheted bedspreads; embroidered
heirloom tablecloths; heirloom glassware,
dinnerware and cutlery in antique display cabinets;
the ubiquitous butaca plantation chairs with
elongated armrests.

Locally woven inabel sheets, pillowcases, towels,
and curtains to complete the spare and traditional
Ilocano look.

A must in savoring the heritage of Ilocos in Sitio is
indulging on empanada (stuffed pastry),
longganisa (sausage), pancit miki (rice noodles),
biscocho (biscuit), and the unbeatable freshness of
its vegetable dishes like pinakbet, dinengdeng, and
abraõ that go with cholesterol-filled bagnet (deep-
fried pork belly) and the ever-present trio of KBL or
kamatis (tomato), bagoong (anchovy paste), lazuna
(shallot).

Staying in Sitio Remedios is taking a step
backward.

Backward in the sense that it is visiting our roots
where history returns to life.

For reservations, please log on to www.
sitioremedios.com. You may email the author at
mike@mikemina.com
After graduating in
the States, I came
home to find that my
ancestral home had
been torn down and
replaced with a
modern structure.
Since then, I vowed
to rebuild, and here
it is
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Sitio Remedios provides the conveniences and amenities of a full-service family resort.
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Sitio Remedios: A step back in time
How a native son built a charming
heritage village of his childhood